THE WONDER OF WALES

So we were off on another adventure, this time a road trip to the Welsh village of Aberyfi for a couple of days of rest and recuperation. Memories of times gone by and other escapades filled my mind as we approached the Welsh boarder. Having spent the last thirty years with my husband David since our teenage years, we’ve had a few adventures as I’m sure you can imagine and as we made our way through the snow-capped mountains of Snowdonia we reminisced over the fond memories of years gone by. Some before we had our children and many more since, our lives now feeling as if we’ve gone full circle able to take off alone leaving the kids behind to look after the house and dogs. You see there is an advantage to having children after all, when they are all grown up you can leave them home alone while you go off and enjoy yourself. So there is a god and all our years of hard work bringing them up, nurturing them, and teaching them how to be responsible adults finally paid off. We arrived at our destination late on Sunday afternoon and travelling past the turnoff for our chalet continued to the small fishing village of Aberdyfi. What a quaint and picturesque place. Having parked the car we stepped out to wander around and stretch our legs taking in the sight of the estuary from the jetty that jutted out to sea. The small beach blended into sand dunes that stretched out as far as the eye could see meeting the golf course further round the bay. A few people milled around and after a quick trip to the local convenience store to pick up a few supplies we climbed back into the car to find the chalet before night fall. The four wheel drive of David’s beloved Subaru powered us up the steep winding road cut into the hillside to a hidden community of beautiful wooden chalets set amongst the sloping woodland of the Snowdonia National Park overlooking the estuary. (http://ow.ly/V2ppR )

The accommodation was splendid and well equipped, complete with an authentic wood burning stove in which we soon had a roaring fire to take the chill from the air. The setting was idyllic and I can imagine in the summertime a regular little sun trap as the chalet was south facing looking out between the trees to the sea. We made ourselves at home and nestled for a while in front of the fire as the sun set on Aberdyfi recharging our batteries with a much needed snack and a hot cup of coffee. As night fell we decided to go out for dinner and headed off towards Barmouth, the freedom to go wherever we wanted and with no rush to get back figured we venture further afield for our evening meal. With barely any traffic it was like we had the roads to ourselves, David loving being able to put his foot down and rally his Subaru along the winding roads. Full beam headlights lit the way ahead courteously dipping them for oncoming traffic so as not to dazzle the other drivers, if only everyone was so considerate! My annoyance at the oncoming traffic failing to do the same. After almost an hour we arrived in Barmouth and having found ourselves at The Last Inn, one of the oldest pubs in Wales dating back to the 15th century we wandered in. (http://www.lastinn-barmouth.co.uk/ ) This quaint atmospheric pub was full of history boasting a natural spring inside previously used to keep the ale casks cool. It was buzzing and packed with a mixture of fellow tourists and locals all out to sample its tasty menu. Our meal was delicious and the service was quick and pleasant all of which lending to an enjoyable evening. With full bellies we left the warmth of the cosy pub heading back to our romantic retreat to spend the remainder of the evening in front of the roaring fire. It was touching freezing as we approached the chalet and by the light of an almost full moon we let ourselves in under the watchful eyes of the stars above. A new day dawned after a peaceful night’s sleep in one of the most comfortable beds I have ever slept in and after a leisurely full English breakfast to set us up for the day we were once again on the road. This time we were driving further south and with the sun trying desperately to poke through the cloudy sky we stepped out onto a windy promenade in Aberystwyth. The view from the sea front was beautiful, hills sloping down into the ocean to one side with a shale beach stretching out to the other with the remains of a castle in the distance. I was saddened as we walked along the sea front at the number of empty run-down buildings that fronted the promenade, the tired looking pier and the general lack of love emanating from the place. David and I laughed as a lone man played with a toddler on the deserted beach desperately trying to keep his little legs away from the water while attempting to snap a picture on his mobile phone. Oh the joys of parenthood. We neared the castle remains and the war memorial at the edge of the sea climbing up to read the engravings carved into the stone structure of those poor souls lost in World War II. The castle remains were strangely eerie as we wondered around them and I couldn’t help but imagine my boys in their younger years playing hide and seek amongst them. The wind whipped up around us as we climbed up on the remnants of the towers looking out to sea imagining how it would have once looked in all its splendour with guards keeping watch over our vulnerable shores. (http://www.castlewales.com/aberystw.html )

Leaving the ruins behind us we wandered through the town centre stopping briefly to grab a coffee and a hot chocolate to go to warm us up as we made our way back to the car to continue our little road trip further south. Another hour or so on the road found us in the centre of Cardigan at a tourist information centre where we gladly used the facilities available to relieve ourselves. Now late afternoon and with the sun already beginning to set we asked the Sat Nav to search for a beach. It set the destination about four miles away in a place called MWNT. Long winding lanes wide enough for only one car with tall hedges to either side led us further from the town of Cardigan, deeper into the unknown. David drove us forward confidently following the arrow on the screen until the road turned into a track and a car park seemingly in the middle of nowhere sat empty below a huge hill and to the side of an enormous valley. With excitement rushing through me I climbed out of the car my eyes focusing on too many beautiful sights as they took in our surroundings. It was breath taking, but there was only one problem, I couldn’t see any beach. Nothing but a small white building that stood a few hundred yards away nestled at the foot of the hills beyond. We set off across the field, not a sole around, just David and I up here in this remote corner of Wales and as we approached the building we could see it was in fact a small church complete with grave yard, home to the resting souls of the dearly deceased. We carried on beyond the pretty chapel to the edge of the hill to find a deep gauge and cliff face with the ocean crashing up against the rocks below. “Don’t go to close to the edge!” David warned as I stooped over to see the sight below teasing him by going a little closer. We climbed the hill, our tired legs struggling with the steeper than it looked incline. It was like we were on top of the world, our car nothing more than a speck of silver in the distance, the only solitary vehicle in the car park far below, not a soul around for miles, as far as the eye could see. David began his descent back towards the car while I ventured further around the base of the big hill following a track I’d found. Then I saw it, the golden sands of the deserted beach hidden deep in the valley below. Excitement ran through my veins as I called out to David who was now almost back at the car. Desperate to touch the sand I bounded off like an excited child to the entrance I could see beyond the valley, a steep staircase carved into the hillside along a flow of water cascading down the rock face to meet the ocean below. It was almost dark now but determined none the less I left David at the top waiting by the car and began my descent treading carefully over the wet stone steps. It was as if I’d discovered this little pocket of paradise for the very first time and even though it was a cold November day I could imagine being here in the glorious sunshine of a warm summer’s day. Just me, David and this little strip of secluded beach. Little did I know that in 2011 the Daily Mail placed it at the very top of its list of ‘Europe’s top ten list of loveliest hidden beaches’ (http://www.discoverceredigion.co.uk/English/where/Coast/beaches/Pages/mwnt.aspx )

With darkness quickly closing in I climbed back into the car with tired legs and a beating heart feeling exhilarated by my find and exhausted by the steep climb back up the steps. Motoring along the winding lanes under darkened skies and now the pouring rain we meandered back towards the main road that would take us back to our retreat on the wooded hillside of Aberdyfi. A quick pit stop on route at good old McDonald’s to satisfy our grumbling stomachs and we were on the final leg of our journey. Despite the route being along a major A road we saw very little traffic and as David drove into the night against the beating rain we were guided by the cats eyes that glistened in the middle of the road like a snake illuminating the curve of the road ahead. Our final night back at the chalet and another roaring fire to snuggle up in front of awaited. All packed up and ready to go we reluctantly left our Welsh retreat, the rain still falling from the night before. With a final sweep of the chalet to check we had all our belongings and we were on our way, this time taking the coastal route with a planned stop at my uncles place near Conway. With his location successfully loaded into the Sat Nav we left Aberdyfi headed once more across the Snowdonia National Park this time over miles of picturesque moorlands. As we climbed higher the visibility became poorer as we drove through the clouds high up on the moors. The feeling suddenly surreal as we travelled along the deserted road, an exhilarating driving experience for David, the Subaru coping easily with the Welsh valley rally we had taken her on. Motoring back down below the clouds we could see the beautiful scenery below stopping briefly to picture it. The fern covered moors were soon replaced by rows and rows of trees to either side of us as we entered Gwydir Forest which has been appointed a Site of Special Scientific Interest. (http://www.snowdoniaguide.com/gwydir_forest.html ) If only it hadn’t been raining and if we’d had more time we would have stopped to explore a little and absorb the beauty of the place. Sadly we needed to press on, with a stop already scheduled and my needing to be back before dark to tend to the horses, this was a place we would save for another day.

Reaching Conway we found Uncle Robins’ house and as agreed stopped off for a welcome break. Bro Dawel is situated at the foot of a large hill, a stream running through his award winning garden. The setting was idyllic and I could quickly see what had drawn him to the place. After a lovely catch up and light refreshment we were back on the road for the final leg of our journey home, back to the concrete carpet filled with metal boxes all going their own separate ways. The wonder of wales and the beauty of the welsh countryside now behind us, another memory to add to our collection.